Practical functions of clothing include providing
the human body protection against weather — strong sunlight, extreme
heat or cold, and precipitation — also protection against insects,
noxious chemicals, weapons, and contact with abrasive substances. In sum,
clothing protects against anything that might injure the naked human body.
Humans have shown extreme inventiveness in devising clothing solutions
to practical problems.
See: armor, diving suit, bee-keeper's costume, motorcycle leathers, high-visibility
clothing, and protective clothing.Clothing as social messageSocial messages
sent by clothing, accessories, and decorations can involve social status,
occupation, ethnic and religious affiliation, marital status and sexual
availability, etc. Humans must know the code in order to recognize the
message transmitted. If different groups read the same item of clothing
or decoration with different meanings, the wearer may provoke unanticipated
responses.
Social status
In many societies, people of high rank reserve special items of clothing
or decoration for themselves as symbols of their social status. In ancient
times, only Roman senators could wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple;
only high-ranking Hawaiian chiefs could wear feather cloaks and palaoa
or carved whale teeth. In China before the establishment of the republic,
only the emperor could wear yellow. In many cases throughout history,
there have been elaborate systems of sumptuary laws regulating who could
wear what. In other societies (including most modern societies), no laws
prohibit lower-status people from wearing high-status garments, but the
high cost of status garments effectively limits purchase and display.
In current Western society, only the rich can afford haute couture. The
threat of social ostracism may also limit garment choice.
Occupation
Military, police, and firefighters usually wear uniforms, as do workers
in many industries. School children often wear school uniforms, while
college and university students sometimes wear academic dress. Members
of religious orders may wear uniforms known as habits. Sometimes a single
item of clothing or a single accessory can declare one's occupation or
rank within a profession — for example, the high toque or chef's
hat worn by a chief cook.Ethnic, political, and religious affiliationIn
many regions of the world, national costumes and styles in clothing and
ornament declare membership in a certain village, caste, religion, etc.
A Scotsman declares his clan with his tartan. A Sikh may display his religious
affiliation by wearing a turban and other traditional clothing. A French
peasant woman may identify her village with her cap or coif.
Clothes can also proclaim dissent from cultural norms and mainstream
beliefs, as well as personal independence. In 19th-century Europe, artists
and writers lived la vie de Bohème and dressed to shock: George
Sand in men's clothing, female emancipationists in bloomers, male artists
in velvet waistcoats and gaudy neckcloths. Bohemians, beatniks, hippies,
Goths, punks and Skinheads have continued the (countercultural) tradition
in the 20th-century West. Now that haute couture plagiarizes street fashion
within a year or so, street fashion may have lost some of its power to
shock, but it still motivates millions trying to look hip and cool.
Marital status
Hindu women, once married, wear sindoor, a red powder, in the parting
of their hair; if widowed, they abandon sindoor and jewelry and wear simple
white clothing. Men and women of the Western world may wear wedding rings
to indicate their marital status. See also Visual markers of marital status.
Attitudes and Perceived Attitudes Toward Sexuality
Throughout history, ideas of human sexuality have been inextricably linked
to complex cultural, social and personal beliefs. In its role as both
covering and adornment for the human body, and as the outward face humans
present to their peers in society, clothing has historically proved to
be a charged and versatile symbol.
Clothing's use as a representation of sexuality and of larger cultural
identity varies with the same extraordinarily wide range and complexity
of human beliefs themselves. What constitutes beauty, desirability, morality,
modesty and other subjective intangibles varies radically from culture
to culture, within different contexts in the same culture, and over time
as different fashions rise and fall.
Attitudes about the morals and messages perceived to be conveyed by clothing
have historically created much controversy between social and cultural
groups. The inherent subjectivity of symbolic meaning presents issues
for cross-cultural communications. Defined by sociological factors such
as cultural background, religious convictions, class, age, gender, and
even personal experience, the inherent subjectivity of the perceived symbolic
meaning of clothing makes clothing a common point of contention between
individuals as well.
The failure to recognize that cultural differences in the sexual meaning
of clothing can hold distinctly different meanings for different cultures
or individuals can create tremendous misunderstandings between peoples.
For example, some Muslim women proudly wear a head or body covering as
an expression of modesty (see hijab, burqa or bourqa, chador and abaya),
while others are required to wear them by male elders of their communities;
many Western Muslims and women's rights activists fail to see the distinction,
and much controversy has taken place as a result. As another example,
persons of a particular background may feel that a woman's choice of dress
indicates flirtatious intent or even sexual availability, while the woman
may feel quite differently and may be expressing her own standard of beauty.
Sexual fetishes involving clothing
Because clothing and adornment are closely related to ideas of human sexuality
and sexual display, humans have developed clothing fetishes. They may
be strongly aroused by the sight of another person wearing clothing and
accessories they consider arousing or sexually exciting. Sometimes the
object of clothing becomes the object of arousal itself. Fetishes have
been documented in every culture and have been recorded throughout history.
Common fetishes involving clothing include arousal by or involving shoes,
leather, uniforms, or lingerie.
Religious habits and special religious clothing
Religious clothing might be considered a special case of occupational
clothing. Sometimes it is worn only during the performance of religious
ceremonies. However, it may also be worn everyday as a marker for special
religious status.
Christian liturgical clothing (vestments)
Christian clerical clothing (non-liturgical dress)
Christian monastic habits
Buddhist monastic dress
Orthodox Jewish dress
Hindu religious dress
Muslim religious dress
Paper
Rubber
PVC
Reinforcing materials such as wood, bone, plastic and metal may be used
to stiffen garments such as corsets, bodices, or swimsuits.
Clothing maintenance
Clothing, once manufactured, suffers assault both from within and from
without. The human body inside sheds skin cells and body oils, and exudes
sweat, urine, and feces. From the outside, sun damage, damp, abrasion,
dirt, and other indignities afflict the garment. Fleas and lice take up
residence in clothing seams. Well-worn clothing, if not cleaned and refurbished,
will smell, itch, look scruffy, and lose functionality as when buttons
fall off and zippers fail.
In some cases, people simply wear an item of clothing until it falls
apart. Cleaning leather presents difficulties; one cannot wash bark cloth
tapa without dissolving it. Owners may patch tears and rips, and brush
off surface dirt, but old leather and bark clothing will always look old.But
most clothing consists of cloth, and most cloth can be laundered and mended
(patching, darning, but compare felt.
Humans have developed many specialized methods for laundering, ranging
from the earliest "pound clothes against rocks in running stream"
to the latest in electronic washing machines and dry cleaning (dissolving
dirt in solvents other than water).
In past times, mending was an art. A meticulous tailor or seamstress could
mend rips with thread raveled from hems and seam edges so skillfully that
the darn was practically invisible. When the raw material — cloth
— was worth more than labor, it made sense to expend labor in saving
it. Today clothing is considered a consumable item. Mass-manufactured
clothing is less expensive than the time it would take to repair it. Many
people prefer to buy a new piece of clothing rather than to spend their
time mending old clothes. But the thrifty still replace zippers and buttons
and sew up ripped hems.
The life cycle of clothing
Used, no-longer-wearable clothing was once desirable raw material for
quilts, rag rugs, bandages, and many other household uses. It could also
be recycled into paper. Now it is usually just tossed into the trash.
Used but still wearable clothing can be sold at consignment shops, flea
markets, online auction, or just donated to charity. Charities usually
skim the best of the clothing to sell in their own thrift stores and sell
the rest to merchants, who bale it up and ship it to poor Third World
countries, where vendors bid for the bales and then make what profit they
can selling used clothing.
Early 21st-century clothing styles
Western fashion has to a certain extent become international fashion,
as Western media and styles penetrate all parts of the world. Very few
parts of the world remain where people do not wear items of cheap, mass-produced
Western clothing. Even people in poor countries can afford used clothing
from richer Western countries.
However, people may wear ethnic or national dress on special occasions
or if carrying out certain roles or occupations. For example, most Japanese
women have adopted Western-style dress for daily wear, but will still
wear expensive silk kimonos on special occasions. Items of Western dress
may also appear worn or accessorized in distinctive, non-Western ways.
A Tongan man may combine a used T-shirt with a Tongan wrapped skirt, or
tupenu.Western fashion, too, does not function monolithically. It comes
in many varieties, from expensive haute couture to thrift store gruMainstream
Western or international stylesInternational standard business attire
global in influence, just as business functions globally.
Haute couture
Regional styles
Clothing of Europe and Russia
Clothing in the Americas
United States mainstream fashion
For example: "Catalogue" fashion, regional styles such as preppy
or Western wear.
United States alternative fashion
These fashions are often associated with fans of various musical styles.
See also Goth, Hippie, Grunge, Hip-hop, and Fetish-wear
Clothing in Asia
Origin and history of clothing
According to archaeologists and anthropologists, the earliest clothing
probably consisted of fur, leather, leaves or grass, draped, wrapped or
tied about the body for protection from the elements. Knowledge of such
clothing remains inferential, since clothing materials deteriorate quickly
compared to stone, bone, shell and metal artifacts. Archeologists have
identified very early sewing needles of bone and ivory from about 30,000
BC, found near Kostenki, Russia, in 1988.
Mark Stone, an anthropologist at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary
Anthropology, has conducted a genetic analysis of human body lice that
shows they first evolved only 72,000 to 42,000 years ago. Since most humans
have very sparse body hair, body lice require clothing to survive, so
this suggests a surprisingly recent date for the invention of clothing.
Its invention may have coincided with the spread of modern Homo sapiens
from the warm climate of Africa, thought to have begun between 50,000
and 100,000 years ago.
(Note that some religions dispute the scientific accounts of human evolution
and early history, and embrace accounts of human origins, including the
origins of clothing, based on sacred texts or myths. See Traditional accounts
of the origin of clothing.)
Some human cultures, such as the various peoples of the Arctic Circle,
until recently made their clothing entirely of furs and skins, cutting
clothing to fit and decorating lavishly.
Other cultures have supplemented or replaced leather and skins with cloth:
woven, knitted, or twined from various animal and vegetable fibres. See
weaving, knitting, and twining.Although modern consumers take clothing
for granted, making the fabrics that go into clothing is not easy. One
sign of this is that the textile industry was the first to be mechanized
during the Industrial Revolution; before the invention of the powered
loom, textile production was a tedious and labor-intensive process. Therefore,
methods were developed for making most efficient use of textiles.
One approach simply involves draping the cloth. Many peoples wore, and
still wear, garments consisting of rectangles of cloth wrapped to fit
— for example, the Scottish kilt or the Javanese sarong. Pins or
belts hold the garments in place. The precious cloth remains uncut, and
people of various sizes can wear the garment.
Another approach involves cutting and sewing the cloth, but using every
bit of the cloth rectangle in constructing the clothing. The tailor may
cut triangular pieces from one corner of the cloth, and then add them
elsewhere as gussets. Traditional European patterns for men's shirts and
women's chemises take this approach.
Modern European fashion treats cloth much more prodigally, typically
cutting in such a way as to leave various odd-shaped cloth remnants. Industrial
sewing operations sell these as waste; home sewers may turn them into
quilts.
In the thousands of years that humans have spent constructing clothing,
they have created an astonishing array of styles, many of which we can
reconstruct from surviving garments, photos, paintings, mosaics, etc.,
as well as from written descriptions. Costume history serves as a source
of inspiration to current fashion designers, as well as a topic of professional
interest to costumers constructing for plays, films, television, and historical
reenactment.
Future trends
As technologies change, so will clothing.
Man-made fibers such as nylon, polyester, Lycra, and Gore-Tex already
account for much of the clothing market. Many more types of fibers will
certainly be developed, possibly using nanotechnology. For example, military
uniforms may stiffen when hit by bullets, filter out poisonous chemicals,
and treat wounds.
"Smart" clothing will incorporate electronics. Clothing may
incorporate wearable computers, flexible wearable displays (possibly leading
to fully animated clothing and some forms of invisibility cloaks), medical
sensors, etc.
Present-day ready-to-wear technologies will presumably give way to computer-aided
custom manufacturing. Harmless laser beams (usually white light) will
measure the customer; computers will draw up a custom pattern and execute
it in the customer's choice of cloth.
Clothing industry
The clothing industry is concentrated outside of western Europe and America,
and garment workers often have to labor under poor conditions. Coalitions
of NGO's and trade unions like the Clean clothes campaign (CCC) seek to
improve these conditions as much as possible by sponsoring awareness-raising
events, which draw the attention of both the media and the general public
to the workers' plight.
Practical functions of clothing include providing the human body protection
against weather — strong sunlight, extreme heat or cold, and precipitation
— also protection against insects, noxious chemicals, weapons, and
contact with abrasive substances. In sum, clothing protects against anything
that might injure the naked human body. Humans have shown extreme inventiveness
in devising clothing solutions to practical problems.
See: armor, diving suit, bee-keeper's costume, motorcycle leathers, high-visibility
clothing, and protective clothing.Clothing as social messageSocial messages
sent by clothing, accessories, and decorations can involve social status,
occupation, ethnic and religious affiliation, marital status and sexual
availability, etc. Humans must know the code in order to recognize the
message transmitted. If different groups read the same item of clothing
or decoration with different meanings, the wearer may provoke unanticipated
responses.
Social status
In many societies, people of high rank reserve special items of clothing
or decoration for themselves as symbols of their social status. In ancient
times, only Roman senators could wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple;
only high-ranking Hawaiian chiefs could wear feather cloaks and palaoa
or carved whale teeth. In China before the establishment of the republic,
only the emperor could wear yellow. In many cases throughout history,
there have been elaborate systems of sumptuary laws regulating who could
wear what. In other societies (including most modern societies), no laws
prohibit lower-status people from wearing high-status garments, but the
high cost of status garments effectively limits purchase and display.
In current Western society, only the rich can afford haute couture. The
threat of social ostracism may also limit garment choice.
Occupation
Military, police, and firefighters usually wear uniforms, as do workers
in many industries. School children often wear school uniforms, while
college and university students sometimes wear academic dress. Members
of religious orders may wear uniforms known as habits. Sometimes a single
item of clothing or a single accessory can declare one's occupation or
rank within a profession — for example, the high toque or chef's
hat worn by a chief cook.Ethnic, political, and religious affiliationIn
many regions of the world, national costumes and styles in clothing and
ornament declare membership in a certain village, caste, religion, etc.
A Scotsman declares his clan with his tartan. A Sikh may display his religious
affiliation by wearing a turban and other traditional clothing. A French
peasant woman may identify her village with her cap or coif.
Clothes can also proclaim dissent from cultural norms and mainstream
beliefs, as well as personal independence. In 19th-century Europe, artists
and writers lived la vie de Bohème and dressed to shock: George
Sand in men's clothing, female emancipationists in bloomers, male artists
in velvet waistcoats and gaudy neckcloths. Bohemians, beatniks, hippies,
Goths, punks and Skinheads have continued the (countercultural) tradition
in the 20th-century West. Now that haute couture plagiarizes street fashion
within a year or so, street fashion may have lost some of its power to
shock, but it still motivates millions trying to look hip and cool.
Marital status
Hindu women, once married, wear sindoor, a red powder, in the parting
of their hair; if widowed, they abandon sindoor and jewelry and wear simple
white clothing. Men and women of the Western world may wear wedding rings
to indicate their marital status. See also Visual markers of marital status.
Attitudes and Perceived Attitudes Toward Sexuality
Throughout history, ideas of human sexuality have been inextricably linked
to complex cultural, social and personal beliefs. In its role as both
covering and adornment for the human body, and as the outward face humans
present to their peers in society, clothing has historically proved to
be a charged and versatile symbol.
Clothing's use as a representation of sexuality and of larger cultural
identity varies with the same extraordinarily wide range and complexity
of human beliefs themselves. What constitutes beauty, desirability, morality,
modesty and other subjective intangibles varies radically from culture
to culture, within different contexts in the same culture, and over time
as different fashions rise and fall.
Attitudes about the morals and messages perceived to be conveyed by clothing
have historically created much controversy between social and cultural
groups. The inherent subjectivity of symbolic meaning presents issues
for cross-cultural communications. Defined by sociological factors such
as cultural background, religious convictions, class, age, gender, and
even personal experience, the inherent subjectivity of the perceived symbolic
meaning of clothing makes clothing a common point of contention between
individuals as well.
The failure to recognize that cultural differences in the sexual meaning
of clothing can hold distinctly different meanings for different cultures
or individuals can create tremendous misunderstandings between peoples.
For example, some Muslim women proudly wear a head or body covering as
an expression of modesty (see hijab, burqa or bourqa, chador and abaya),
while others are required to wear them by male elders of their communities;
many Western Muslims and women's rights activists fail to see the distinction,
and much controversy has taken place as a result. As another example,
persons of a particular background may feel that a woman's choice of dress
indicates flirtatious intent or even sexual availability, while the woman
may feel quite differently and may be expressing her own standard of beauty.
Sexual fetishes involving clothing
Because clothing and adornment are closely related to ideas of human sexuality
and sexual display, humans have developed clothing fetishes. They may
be strongly aroused by the sight of another person wearing clothing and
accessories they consider arousing or sexually exciting. Sometimes the
object of clothing becomes the object of arousal itself. Fetishes have
been documented in every culture and have been recorded throughout history.
Common fetishes involving clothing include arousal by or involving shoes,
leather, uniforms, or lingerie.
Religious habits and special religious clothing
Religious clothing might be considered a special case of occupational
clothing. Sometimes it is worn only during the performance of religious
ceremonies. However, it may also be worn everyday as a marker for special
religious status.
Christian liturgical clothing (vestments)
Christian clerical clothing (non-liturgical dress)
Christian monastic habits
Buddhist monastic dress
Orthodox Jewish dress
Hindu religious dress
Muslim religious dress
Paper
Rubber
PVC
Reinforcing materials such as wood, bone, plastic and metal may be used
to stiffen garments such as corsets, bodices, or swimsuits.
Clothing maintenance
Clothing, once manufactured, suffers assault both from within and from
without. The human body inside sheds skin cells and body oils, and exudes
sweat, urine, and feces. From the outside, sun damage, damp, abrasion,
dirt, and other indignities afflict the garment. Fleas and lice take up
residence in clothing seams. Well-worn clothing, if not cleaned and refurbished,
will smell, itch, look scruffy, and lose functionality as when buttons
fall off and zippers fail.
In some cases, people simply wear an item of clothing until it falls
apart. Cleaning leather presents difficulties; one cannot wash bark cloth
tapa without dissolving it. Owners may patch tears and rips, and brush
off surface dirt, but old leather and bark clothing will always look old.But
most clothing consists of cloth, and most cloth can be laundered and mended
(patching, darning, but compare felt.
Humans have developed many specialized methods for laundering, ranging
from the earliest "pound clothes against rocks in running stream"
to the latest in electronic washing machines and dry cleaning (dissolving
dirt in solvents other than water).
In past times, mending was an art. A meticulous tailor or seamstress could
mend rips with thread raveled from hems and seam edges so skillfully that
the darn was practically invisible. When the raw material — cloth
— was worth more than labor, it made sense to expend labor in saving
it. Today clothing is considered a consumable item. Mass-manufactured
clothing is less expensive than the time it would take to repair it. Many
people prefer to buy a new piece of clothing rather than to spend their
time mending old clothes. But the thrifty still replace zippers and buttons
and sew up ripped hems.
The life cycle of clothing
Used, no-longer-wearable clothing was once desirable raw material for
quilts, rag rugs, bandages, and many other household uses. It could also
be recycled into paper. Now it is usually just tossed into the trash.
Used but still wearable clothing can be sold at consignment shops, flea
markets, online auction, or just donated to charity. Charities usually
skim the best of the clothing to sell in their own thrift stores and sell
the rest to merchants, who bale it up and ship it to poor Third World
countries, where vendors bid for the bales and then make what profit they
can selling used clothing.
Early 21st-century clothing styles
Western fashion has to a certain extent become international fashion,
as Western media and styles penetrate all parts of the world. Very few
parts of the world remain where people do not wear items of cheap, mass-produced
Western clothing. Even people in poor countries can afford used clothing
from richer Western countries.
However, people may wear ethnic or national dress on special occasions
or if carrying out certain roles or occupations. For example, most Japanese
women have adopted Western-style dress for daily wear, but will still
wear expensive silk kimonos on special occasions. Items of Western dress
may also appear worn or accessorized in distinctive, non-Western ways.
A Tongan man may combine a used T-shirt with a Tongan wrapped skirt, or
tupenu.Western fashion, too, does not function monolithically. It comes
in many varieties, from expensive haute couture to thrift store gruMainstream
Western or international stylesInternational standard business attire
global in influence, just as business functions globally.
Haute couture
Regional styles
Clothing of Europe and Russia
Clothing in the Americas
United States mainstream fashion
For example: "Catalogue" fashion, regional styles such as preppy
or Western wear.
United States alternative fashion
These fashions are often associated with fans of various musical styles.
See also Goth, Hippie, Grunge, Hip-hop, and Fetish-wear
Clothing in Asia
Origin and history of clothing
According to archaeologists and anthropologists, the earliest clothing
probably consisted of fur, leather, leaves or grass, draped, wrapped or
tied about the body for protection from the elements. Knowledge of such
clothing remains inferential, since clothing materials deteriorate quickly
compared to stone, bone, shell and metal artifacts. Archeologists have
identified very early sewing needles of bone and ivory from about 30,000
BC, found near Kostenki, Russia, in 1988.
Mark Stone, an anthropologist at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary
Anthropology, has conducted a genetic analysis of human body lice that
shows they first evolved only 72,000 to 42,000 years ago. Since most humans
have very sparse body hair, body lice require clothing to survive, so
this suggests a surprisingly recent date for the invention of clothing.
Its invention may have coincided with the spread of modern Homo sapiens
from the warm climate of Africa, thought to have begun between 50,000
and 100,000 years ago.
(Note that some religions dispute the scientific accounts of human evolution
and early history, and embrace accounts of human origins, including the
origins of clothing, based on sacred texts or myths. See Traditional accounts
of the origin of clothing.)
Some human cultures, such as the various peoples of the Arctic Circle,
until recently made their clothing entirely of furs and skins, cutting
clothing to fit and decorating lavishly.
Other cultures have supplemented or replaced leather and skins with cloth:
woven, knitted, or twined from various animal and vegetable fibres. See
weaving, knitting, and twining.Although modern consumers take clothing
for granted, making the fabrics that go into clothing is not easy. One
sign of this is that the textile industry was the first to be mechanized
during the Industrial Revolution; before the invention of the powered
loom, textile production was a tedious and labor-intensive process. Therefore,
methods were developed for making most efficient use of textiles.
One approach simply involves draping the cloth. Many peoples wore, and
still wear, garments consisting of rectangles of cloth wrapped to fit
— for example, the Scottish kilt or the Javanese sarong. Pins or
belts hold the garments in place. The precious cloth remains uncut, and
people of various sizes can wear the garment.
Another approach involves cutting and sewing the cloth, but using every
bit of the cloth rectangle in constructing the clothing. The tailor may
cut triangular pieces from one corner of the cloth, and then add them
elsewhere as gussets. Traditional European patterns for men's shirts and
women's chemises take this approach.
Modern European fashion treats cloth much more prodigally, typically
cutting in such a way as to leave various odd-shaped cloth remnants. Industrial
sewing operations sell these as waste; home sewers may turn them into
quilts.
In the thousands of years that humans have spent constructing clothing,
they have created an astonishing array of styles, many of which we can
reconstruct from surviving garments, photos, paintings, mosaics, etc.,
as well as from written descriptions. Costume history serves as a source
of inspiration to current fashion designers, as well as a topic of professional
interest to costumers constructing for plays, films, television, and historical
reenactment.
Future trends
As technologies change, so will clothing.
Man-made fibers such as nylon, polyester, Lycra, and Gore-Tex already
account for much of the clothing market. Many more types of fibers will
certainly be developed, possibly using nanotechnology. For example, military
uniforms may stiffen when hit by bullets, filter out poisonous chemicals,
and treat wounds.
"Smart" clothing will incorporate electronics. Clothing may
incorporate wearable computers, flexible wearable displays (possibly leading
to fully animated clothing and some forms of invisibility cloaks), medical
sensors, etc.
Present-day ready-to-wear technologies will presumably give way to computer-aided
custom manufacturing. Harmless laser beams (usually white light) will
measure the customer; computers will draw up a custom pattern and execute
it in the customer's choice of cloth.
Clothing industry
The clothing industry is concentrated outside of western Europe and America,
and garment workers often have to labor under poor conditions. Coalitions
of NGO's and trade unions like the Clean clothes campaign (CCC) seek to
improve these conditions as much as possible by sponsoring awareness-raising
events, which draw the attention of both the media and the general public
to the workers' plight.
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